Saturday, January 3, 2009

New Look 6619 Jacket

Since I posted the teaser photo, I guess I should follow it up with a completed project. I've spent the morning tearing the closet out of my sewing room, so please forgive the transplanted PR review. I'd talk more if I had it in me.

Pattern Description: Short, lined jacket with set-in sleeves and collar variations.

Pattern Sizing: 8-18. I made a straight size 12 and it fits just fine. The shape of the jacket is a little boxy (i.e., no bust darts), so there is enough wiggle room here for me to taper it in if I wanted something a little more fitted.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, other than my obvious changes regarding fabric.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't really look at them. I've made plenty of jackets by now, and there was nothing complicated about this style.

That being said, I did make one major mistake (part user error and part pattern issue), but it was fixable, although a major pain to fix. I constructed the jacket and then I cut and made the lining. Trusting soul that I am (not, so how did this happen?) I cut the lining from the pattern pieces marked "cut 2 of fabric, cut 2 of lining". Except the cute little side panel piece isn't marked to cut as lining, and because there was a separate facing piece and front lining piece, I somehow got it into my head that the lining was constructed differently and went on my merry way. Since the missing piece doesn't affect the lining as sewn to the facings, I didn't notice until I got it all sewn in and tried the jacket on - and it no longer came close to fitting. Oops.

Cut the lining out, picked out all the stitches, went back to Jomar the next day, bought more gray lining fabric, recut with the proper piece, and voila! it worked. I looked at the directions later and it really didn't mention that piece either; the only way I would have gotten a heads-up would have been to look at the fabric layout diagram, and how often do we do that?

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I've got a hankering for a Chanel-style jacket and this was the test-drive of the pattern. It will definitely work with the fabric and trims I've selected for the next round.

Fabric Used: Charcoal gray faux "quilted" poly blend from Joann's. I'm not usually a big fan of Joann's fabric, but this was surprisingly nice. It sewed well but it refused to press flat. All the seam allowances are stuck down with Steam-a-Seam because otherwise they wouldn't have stayed down. Fabulous square snaps from Pacific Trims in NYC.

Despite the contrariness of the fabric, I managed to get the sleeves set in nicely (yes, those seam allowances were stuck down as well).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Almost none since this was a test drive for a future jacket. I did alter the lining somewhat - this pattern has front facings but no back neck facing, and I don't like the look of that. I also added some width at the top of the lining so I could have a pleat at the top. I cut the sleeves (and that pesky side piece) on the bias to add interest. I've found that bias sleeves ease in much more cooperatively than their on-grain counterparts, so in addition to liking the look, I liked that. Other than that, this was sewn straight out of the envelope.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. I'm planning on making a Chanel-style jacket from this pattern in a black diamond-patterned wool from Metro Textiles just as soon as I find buttons and trim that work for me. It's not a hard sew, the boxy shape makes for an easy fit, and it's easily customized.

Conclusion: Not a bad thing to say about this pattern.

9 comments:

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

This is really cute and a wonderful test for the next version!

-E said...

Wow! that fabric does look FAB! and the square snaps... love it.

Lindsay T said...

A very attractive take on this pattern. Me too, love the square snaps!

Alexandra said...

Nice test-drive! I love the square snaps.

Happy New Year!

stacysews said...

This is so cute - I love the fabric and buttons you used with it!

cidell said...

Love it! Perfect fabric and those snaps are awesome!

Little Hunting Creek said...

I am filled with jealousy over those square snaps. This is a super cute jacket!

Tany said...

That's a lovely jacket, bravo!

Kat said...

Really nice!