Thursday, September 10, 2009

Almost there . . .

All I have left is to make buttonholes, sew on buttons and finish my debate with myself over whether or not I want some visible topstitching on this jacket, and if so, by machine or by hand.

And ironing. Lots and lots of ironing.

This jacket didn't turn out to be quite the jacket I had in mind. I've mostly made Ottobre bottoms before but I've done a few tops, and their sizing is consistent with BWOF; in other words, I'm a 38. So I traced this pattern in 38, and added seam allowances. Just standard size ones, nothing generous.

I shoulda made a muslin.

It fits, don't get me wrong. It fits quite well, but it's not the fit I was expecting. It's a very fitted fit, if you know what I mean. The kind of fit that gets a tank top underneath.

For those considering making this top, unless you've got little skinny stick arms (the kind I envy but will never have), do yourself a favor and cut a size larger on the armholes and sleeves, because these babies are SNUG. But on the plus side, it's a two piece sleeve, so they are well cut and attractively snug.

The same can be said for the entire jacket. The back is princess seamed, which always helps me get a good fit. The front has bust darts and contour darts to the waist seam, and then the peplum is attached. I was a little iffy about the peplum, but it lays very nicely and doesn't add any bulk to my personal peplum.

There are several things I really like about this pattern, and a few things I would change.

I really like the way the collar is drafted. The upper collar is two pieces (collar and stand) while the under collar is one piece (collar with cut-on stand). It works very well, though I think I should have used a heavier interfacing just to give it a bit more shape. (One of my minor dislikes is how large the collar is; if I make it again, I just won't add any seam allowances to the three sides).

On the not-so-plus side, I would draft a separate facing for this jacket instead of using the cut-on facing. Cut-on facings are fine for unlined jackets, but I prefer to construct my shell and my linings separately, and then bag the lining all together. I couldn't do that because I couldn't sew the shoulder seams of the lining, since part of the shoulder seam was contained in that front facing that had to then be sewn to the partial lining before the rest of the lining was constructed. Besides, I like the firmer edge you get with having a facing seam.

I did skip actually inserting real pockets under the pocket flaps. I hadn't planned on them from the beginning - they get inserted right beneath the waist seam and to me it just had the potential of adding bulk there that I didn't need, and pockets I probably wouldn't use anyway. I also cut the back piece on the fold instead of with a center back seam, but that was because I forgot to mark CB and instead marked CBF on the pattern piece. Oops. Well, same difference.

Other than having to construct it slightly differently than I like, and other than having it fit slightly differently than I'd intended, I'm pretty happy with this jacket. I wanted to make a lined jacket as a warmup before I start in on the remake of Mario's jacket, and this has got me back into the right frame of mind.

If I make this jacket again, and I probably will, since overall it was a good experience, I'll make the collar a bit smaller. I'll also cut the sleeves and armholes up a size, and add a skooch more room to the back, since I think part of the snugness is more of a broad back issue than a big boob issue (which is at least a change). I may also leave off the pleats in the back of the peplum - they were cute, but a little too distinctive to do more than once.

Now I want to go off and practice a few more buttonholes before I slide my jacket under the vintage buttonholer and let it go to town.

12 comments:

senaSews said...

I love the jacket so far. The peplum is such a nice detail!

toy said...

I love this style. I love the pleating in the back, can't wait to see the finished garment

Connie Bontje said...

Looks very pretty Karen. I love the peplum too. Looking forward to seeing it on.

Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Very sharp jacket, Karen!
I'll have to take a second look at this pattern. Thanks for the sizing tips.

Lisette M said...

It looks great!

Lindsay T said...

I agree with the others and I think I need to see it on you. Looks great here though.

Tamara said...

Very cute jacket! What great tips on the fit and construction. I think that I will have to take a look at this one again.

Rose said...

The jacket looks great. I like the buttons you have chosen. Thanks for the fit and construction tips!! I'll be tracing this pattern this weekend so your post is timely for me! I like the pattern even more after seeing your jacket!!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Its looking good!

Ripple Dandelion said...

So quick you are! Fingers are crossed that the buttonholer lives up to all your expectations. Can't wait to see the results.

Linda said...

Great looking jacket.

Vicki said...

Love the jacket. Mmm, I wonder if I have that pattern... I recently cancelled my Ottobre subscription as I thought the patterns were too homely. This is not! Lovely.