Wednesday, July 29, 2009

More menswear

Our slim-cut sport jacket will catapult his outfit from 0 to 100 in a matter of seconds. Flapped patch pockets are eye-catching details.

So says BWOF.

Mario says, "I like it."

I says, "Hmmm."

I do like it. I think it would be a stylish addition to his wardrobe, which is lacking in style as far as jackets are concerned. This could be a good addition.

The more I think about it, the better the idea seems. Even though I just made him a shirt - or actually, because I just made him that shirt - I feel like I owe him something he really wants. Clothing-wise.

This will make him happy, and it's doing a pretty good job on me, as well. I'm not thrilled with the way the Patrones top is going, and even if it takes a turn for the better I need to wait for my Atlanta Thread order to arrive before it can be coverstitched in a thread that's not black, white or brown. So on to the next project.

He actually even had a color choice in mind, though I didn't have an army-green in the stash. So we're calling this one a muslin, and I'm using a tiny checked lightweight wool that I got about 6-8 months ago, to use for a Burdastyle jacket for him that never happened. I like this pattern better anyway - there are less pieces (only 12!) and the style has more potential as far as making changes later if this one turns out well.

So Monday night, I measured him, compared his measurements to BWOF's size chart, and sat back down and puzzled until my puzzler was sore. Okay, so he's a little un-proportioned, but he shouldn't manage to span the entire range of 46-52, right? I guess when BWOF says "slim cut" it's a warning. I decided to err on the side of a little extra ease, and I traced the pattern out on my Swedish tracing paper. Generally I just use regular tracing paper from the art supply store, but when I either need to tissue fit, or if it's a pattern I know I'm going to use repeatedly, I break out the good stuff.

I knew this was going to require the good stuff, and for both reasons.

In the beginning I only traced out the front, back and side back panel. It's got side panels in the back; basically it's princess-seamed. Is there a different term for that when it's menswear? Prince-seamed? Whatever.

Then he got a totally new experience of having the pattern taped together at the seam lines, and taped to him. Yes, taped. Just scotch tape, which didn't pull off too much hair. There are no photos because photos weren't allowed, even for my fitting reference. That's what I get for making him play dress-up when he was happily on the couch watching MSNBC in his underwear.

It took 3 try-ons before I got a fit that I liked. I didn't do my usual sloping shoulder adjustment because this is going to have shoulder pads. I did end up narrowing both back pieces, though the front fit him fine. (There's a fitting dart hidden behind those pockets, which is a nice touch). I also took almost 2" out of the length, in 2 separate places. BWOF's menswear is aimed at a man 5' 8" and up, and he's 5'6". Un-altered, he would have looked like he was wearing daddy's jacket, and that's one of the reasons I don't like most of his current jackets.

I traced off the rest of the pieces, adjusting (hopefully) the sleeves to match the changes I made to the body of the jacket. At least I can tape and try those with the jacket without having to bother him again immediately.

Next will be digging through the leather stash, because I'd really like to turn this sporty with a leather upper collar and pocket flaps. I'm afraid if I don't, he'll ask for leather elbow patches instead, and that would. not. do. At all.


Becky said...

That was one of the best patterns in the most recent issue, IMO, even though I can't make it (no guy to sew for). There was only one, maybe two things tops in there that I'd consider wearing myself. Good luck with the jacket!

Rose said...

Mario should love this one! I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

McVal said...

I am anxious to see how this turns out! My men folk don't want me to sew them anything for fear it will either have bunny ears on them or ruffles...
I would really like to make my son a nice jacket for college tho.
Thanks for the inspiration!

McVal said...

Hey! I've just given you an award on my blog. Check it out when you get a sec.

Audrey said...

I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I like the mens garments in Burda, but my guys are very American traditional. (boring)

Vildy said...

I know you make him a lot of shirts.
Have you seen this idea?

Kat said...

You are amazing sewing for your man! That's why I can't let my DH read your blog LOL. I've been woefully inadequate in making him anything at all the past several years.