When Mario and I went to Florence in October, he bought shirts. Maybe that seems like a silly thing for him to buy, considering how many I make for him, but I was all in favor of it. The man loves shirts; I can only make so many before I get bored, and nice, affordable shirting fabric is hard to come by.
Besides, I was interested in Italian shirts and what - if anything - makes them different from American shirts, so I encouraged his purchases.
The shirts are slim-cut, as opposed to the more classic straight cut that he normally favors. I've measured the difference between his new shirts and his old ones, because even though he always claimed to not like fitted shirts, he likes these better. And they look better on him.
But it's the collars that really got me. The photo at top right is one of his old shirts (old as in thrift store, not as in made by me). But either way, the collar is the same. Straight edge, standard.
The second photo at left is one of his Italian shirts. Look at the shape. The outer curve may look a little funky with a striped fabric, but when it's buttoned, it lays better and has a much nicer fit.
When you look at the two collars together (3rd photo), you can really see how different they are. Not to mention that the Italian shirts feels like its interfacing has interfacing. Those collars and cuffs are stiff - but somehow not uncomfortable. (He'd have mentioned that).
Look at how different they appear buttoned, even just on my cutting table. Sorry, couldn't get my model for this. He'll try on a garment and let me take photos if I'm working on something, but posts for the sake of talking about pattern drafting, he doesn't get.
Besides, he's tired of hearing me obsess about welt pockets and he went upstairs to his office so I could go off to the workroom to practice them without feeling like I was neglecting him. So what am I doing? Stealth typing. Nary a welt pocket in sight.
Do I even need to mention that in addition to noting the changed measurements in the body of the shirt, I've traced off this new and interesting collar and there's another shirt in the works for him shortly. You know how it is - you see something new, you have to try it out, right?
By the way, voting is open for the Menswear Contest over at Patternreview until January 11th. Mario would be thrilled if you cast a vote in favor of "his" jacket, but either way, head on over there and look at some of the fabuluos garments some very lucky men are going to wear this year. Now that we've all finished sewing for them, there's gonna be a whole lot of selfish sewing going on.